The current incarnation of my mini quad.
This quad started off as a Turnigy Micro quad V2 from HobbyKing. Being my first quad, I crashed that frame more times then I can count and fixing it became increasingly more difficult. The original frame has many weak spots in the frame design, and breaking it is just a matter of time (if you crash a lot). I never had a chance to properly tune the KK2 controller board, hence the ample crashing in my back yard. Read more…
The current incarnation of my mini quad.
Looking to find out how to setup up Catia to output to Mach3 :
Under Post Processor choose ICAM.
When setting up the Machine, in the Numerical Control tab, choose “fanuc_16m_mil3″ for Post Processor and choose “ICAM_mm.pptable” for words table.
Following these videos gave me enough info to sucessfully cut some wood. All programmed in CATIA.
Tried to upgrade to ESXi 5.5.0 today, and got an error that there was no usable network device in the computer.
Found that strange, since the current ESXi 5.0.0 works fine with the on-board network adapter.
A bit of searching and it seems that VMware didn’t include the drivers for Realtek network adapters on the install disk. (makes me wonder what else was left out).
Great chart at the end of thrust vs fan diam at different power settings (Source)
another pdf (Source)
Eng-Tips recommended resources (Source)
Came across some interesting pattents that are still held by Stratasys regarding 3d printing and heated chambers.
Heated chamber to be between 70 and 90 deg C.
In an effort to try and control the internal fill material of a part (both direction and amount) I’ve been experimenting with some ideas. (I am using a PP3DP UP! Plus printer, but this applies to any 3d printer)
If the generic cross pattern is either not strong enough for you, or you want to tailor the direction of strength a little better what you must do is model some features in your part that the slicing software can use to put material where you want it.
The simplest method I’ve found is to model internal “cuts” or “slits” in the part. For the UP printer, the slicer software will do the 2 walls around the opening, but if the cut or opening is modeled narrower then 0.1mm, the opening never really materializes (is not present in the internal structure of the print) since the material from both sides will fuse together when being printed. I’ve been using 0.05mm for the slit width.
So if your complex geometry part needed to be stronger in one direction then in another, you could model some “slits” in the direction you want more strength* and less (or no slits in other directions).
* More strength in comparison to the generic fill of the slicer software.
This method can not only generate strength in desired directions, you could use it to just create thicker walls (more around the perimeter, more walls if the slicer software gives no control of that like the Up! Plus software)
Another thing this method can create (which is not currently possible with the UP software) is a solidly filled object. Just create offset surfaces of the outside perimeter surface (towards the inside of the part) every 1mm or so. Then turn those offset surfaces into “cuts” into the part. At each one of those location, you’ll get another set of perimeters.
A few things to note:
- With ABS, I found that walls shift slightly when more material is deposited due to the extra material the “slits” introduce. On my Up! Plus walls shift about 0.15mm to 0.2mm. I can compensate by adjusting the CAD model to account for this. Your millage will vary so do some testing.
- With PLA I’ve noticed a lot less of this wall shift. I haven’t done any extensive testing, but from the few parts I’ve printed I’d say under 0.1mm of wall movement is observed.
- Depending on how smart (or not so smart in the case of the Up! Plus) your slicer software is, it may not know that
I think the best part of all this the ability to internally “truss” a part in the Z direction with solid material. Normally in the Z direction the only material that can resist breaking is the strength of the inter-laminar bonding of the plastic fibers(deposited filament). And really only the perimeter 2 layers, since I would not count on the infill to resist much when stressing the layer bonds.
Imagine printing a tall (in the z direction) skinny tower. If you try to snap it, it will break at the layer bonds.
Now I can make internal diagonal solid pillars (reinforcements) that can resist forces in the designed directions.
More on this as I do more experiments.
Used car prices
Canadian Black Book value
It turns out there is a REST API for kijiji
After watching a short 2 min video, it dawned on me that I can make better use of my time if I pre-planned in detail most of my hobby projects.
A lot of what is mentioned in that video I felt applies to me, so I’m going to make an effort to streamline how I approach my hobbies.
Often when I have some energy to tackle a task in the evening, I am am grasping at straws for what to do mainly because I don’t know where to start or which project to work on… and for the most part this turns into procrastination. A little bit of youtube, a little bit of facebook… and the night is wasted.
I am going to pre-plan all the tasks I need to accomplish for all/most my hobby projects going on at the moment. The hope is that when I have 15 or 30min available, I can just pick up a short task, and complete it without having to look at the big picture (in the moment). Just get the task done and move on.
With FDM (Fused Deposition Method-printing with a filament) 3D printers there’s always a question about the accuracy or precision of the print.
I read a great description of the misconceptions of how accurate 3D prints using this method can be:
“Clarification: the precision of the printhead in the horizontal plane (X-Y direction) is about .011mm (about 2300dpi). However, this number is a little superflous because we are extruding ABS plastic through a relatively larger .35mm nozzle, and all ABS plastic oozes a bit. So a more realistic & practical estimate of resolution in the horizontal plane is about .1mm. And to be crystal clear – this creates great prints. Trying to define the resolution more accurately than this is similar to trying to define the position of a garden hose nozzle to within millimeters – it’s essentially meaningless since the water is going to expand anyway.”