Category Archives: Photography

Lessons learned in photography

In dim lighting conditions, always use some form of AF assist. Be it a flash red AF assist light, our the camera’s flash AF assist, use it.

On the 40D, the focus confirmation will tell you the shot is in focus, however when examined afterwards on a computer, the short could have been sharper. This is especially true when shooting at wide apartures of under f2.0

I have ordered a laser pointer that continuously projects a pattern, and will strap it to the camera body to paint the subject with something that the AF sensor can track and focus reliably in low light, when the flash is not available.

Documentary photography style

I just read an interview with wedding photographer Jeff Ascough, and his shooting style: documentary style photography.

It really captured my interest. I have always loves shooting candids, trying to capture reactions to document an event. I love available light (not a big fan of flash guns), and try not to be intrusive.
I  never gave it any thought about what style that would me.

I’m going to quote some sections of the article that I found really thought provoking.

“Great light and composition are more important to me than anything else in a photograph. Cartier-Bresson, one of my heroes, always looked for the composition first and then waited for the decisive moment. He enjoyed the mathematics of composition. I’m the same. If I can combine great composition, great light, and something interesting within the image, I have the makings of a great picture. I always go for composition and light first.

I follow my clients, looking for the light within the environment they are in. In some cases they may never venture into the best light. That’s the way it goes-I won’t ever ask them to move into better light as I’m not there to interfere.

If the light was bad, I would capture the image with a wide angle and make the subjects very small in the frame, allowing the rest of the frame to tell the story. That way the client would get their processional image, which would look great, and you wouldn’t have to worry too much about the light on their faces.”

“The two things you have to consider when photographing in dim light are your focus and your shutter speed. Focus is fine as long as you can confirm it, and the camera has some help. To this end, I use a Canon EC-A microprism screen in all my cameras. It allows me to judge whether or not the subject is sharp in low light. It also allows me to manually focus if necessary. In really low light, I use a Canon STE2 Speedlite Transmitter on its own. This throws out a beam of light that helps the camera to focus. I don’t try to photograph subjects that are moving about in dim light. That is the domain of the flashgun. If I can get a shutter speed of 1/30th, I’m ok.”

Camera bag. Jeff uses an Urban Disguise 60 most of the time. I will look at getting an Urban Disguise 30, since I don’t need to carry a laptop with me. Will go into Henrys one day to see what these bads look like, and choose one.

“One of the differences that separates the talented pros from the rest in photography, is the photographer’s ability to see light direction and quality. Try to second-guess what is going to happen. It might sound weird, but I have almost a sixth sense when it comes to photographing. I can see the image in my mind’s eye before it happens. I suspect this is a result of many years of experience, though, rather than any special ability.”

“It’s important to be as unobtrusive while photographing weddings. That said, you can be unobtrusive while less than three feet from the subject. It’s all about how you behave when photographing. If you permanently have a camera up to your eye, firing off hundreds of images, the client is going to be very aware of you. Also, hiding in the shadows can be more intrusive than standing close to your subject, because odd behavior is noticeable. If you simply have the camera down at your side and just quietly observe, they will relax and start to ignore you.

Unobtrusiveness doesn’t mean you can’t be seen. That’s a mistake many people make. For many clients, unobtrusiveness means that you are letting them get on with their special day without making them stop for photographs.”

Camcorder search

The canon Elura 2 that I’m currently using, is showing its age. One review I read was dated in 2000, so the camera is at least 10 years old.

The screen is not showing the colors correctly (very fiddly) and the quality is ok.

I’ve been looking around to find a decent replacement.

http://www.vimeo.com/forums/topic:7046

The Canon HV20 seems like a good option for low light work.

Vivitar 285HV Flash power selector

This project started a while ago for me (probably back in July 09), when I got my first Vivitar 285HV flash.

By default, this flash has 4 manual power settings. Full, 1/2, 1/4 and 1/16.
I never liked the fact that there was no 1/8 power. So searching the web I came across some DIY projects to add a selector knob to select different power settings. Continue reading

Flash system

Since I’d like to get into some wireless triggering of flashes, I’m looking for some cheapper flashes I can use and trigger them remotely.

I have a Sigma EF500 DG Super, but it doesn’t get triggered very well. So I’m going to sell it, and pick up something else (maybe an older Canon 54ez, or a Nikon SB-2x) to use along with the Vivitar 285HV flash. Continue reading

f-stop numbers : how to calculate

Every time I wanted to find out what f-stop numbers existed between the whole  full stops, I had to spend too much time scouring the web for this info.

Now I finally understand how I can generate these numbers myself.

The fstop numbers are powers of the square root of 2. For example,

(√2)^1 = 1.4
(√2)^1.33 = 1.6
(√2)^1.66 = 1.8
(√2)^2 = 2
(√2)^2.33 = 2.2
(√2)^2.66 = 2.5
(√2)^3 = 2.8
(√2)^4 = 4
(√2)^5 = 5.7

Lens selection thoughts

Just a thought on lens selection:

Zooms

Tokina 12-24 f/4 (3.01 at photozone.de) (around CND$500 used on ebay)

Sigma 24-70 f2.8 (2.67 at photozone.de)  (around CND$500 used on craigslist)
Canon 24-70 f2.8 L (4.24 at photozone.de) (around CND$1300 used on craigslist)

Canon 70-200 f4 IS ( CND$1150 on craigslist)

This would cover  quite a wide range with 3 lenses.

Primes

To get the really large apertures, primes seem to be the only way to go.

Canon 100mm f2.0  (4.19 at photozone) (CND$425 on craigslist)

Canon 50mm f1.4 (4.19 at photozone) (CND$400 on craigslist)

Sigma 30mm f1.4 (3.06 on photozone.de) (1/2 the price of the Canon 35mm f1.4 with arguably better wide performance then the canon, but sigma lens is only for crop bodies) CND$400-500 craigslist
Canon 35mm f1.4 (3.74 at photozone.de) (CND$1350 on craigslist)