Quadrotor

Going to put together a list of what I would need to build a quad rotor that can do some lifting. Quad built using motors on each corner.

Inspired by the stability of this quad. Video showing AP stability shown here.

LED Strips from HK to light the 4 corners.

Motors (listed in this post) Turnigy 2209. Going with this 20L-22 motor

Turnigy 18A speed controller from HK.

3.5mm plugs from HK

Body:
HK450 heli tail booms. Carbon Fiber ones, and Aluminum ones.

Boom holder.

Battery.

Props. Get them here?

Some more details.

Tricopter controller

I’ve decided to use William’s tricopter controller boards for my own copter.

Reasons being that I’m using 3 rotors, and that the code is written in basic, so that will be easy for me to edit.
I don’t plan on starting with the full IMU cube. Just 2 gyros will do for a start, and I will add on later. Probably a bad idea not to use the whole cube… should just bite the bullet, and make my life simpler, since the development of this copter is secondary to the platform I am after.

Also Will’s code will not dirrectly work on my machine, since I will be adjusting the pitch on the 3 corners, not the motor speed. And the servo that he controlls, will be used by me to control the main motor speed.
These modifications will be made to the code when I get to that stage.

Variable pitch Quad copter (was tricopter)

After starting a few threads on RC Groups forums, and giving the design some thought, I’ve decided that the way I will be starting is with a quadcopter (was tricopter).

Change to a quad was dictated by the design of the frame. I couldn’t come up with an elegant and simple solution to design a body using few fabricated parts. A quad design uses much fewer fabricated parts. So far I only have to drill some holes in some aluminum angle. Simple enough.

I will use 3 tail rotors (HK-500GT Metal Tail Holder (Align part # H50073)) since they are pretty cheap, at $13.  That’s about the cost of one good prop.

Using HK450 tail units instead of the hk500 tails. The 450 has cheaper components.

One central motor will drive the whole system, which will be located in the center of the craft, and will drive the rotors using the belt system that comes with the tail rotors.

No rotation mechanism will be used on the rear rotor, as I will use a few vanes, and adjust their angle to direct the thrust. This should simplify my build considering, and it won’t interfere with the belt drive system.

I will eventually duct the props, for increase efficiency, and safety (so failed blades won’t kill anyone). Speaking of ducting, there a great thread here on construction of a ducted propeller build. Need to finish reading.

Found some interesting info on propsizes and thrust produced here. Need to give it a look.

Interesting: variable pitch heli tails not as efficient as a prop…here.

Another interesing post to read here, regarding variable pitch rotors.

Another Hong Kong shop for heli parts, here.

Forum post on SAFE lifting weight of different sized RC helicopters. Did a plot, and the trend seems to be exponential.

No 205mm blades, but from this, I’d estimate a safe lifting weight of 0.42lbs (190g). Not quite what I expected.

Servo choices: I looked at the recommended servos for a 250 and 450 sized helis. They seem to recommend similar size servos for both copters. 1.8Kg-cm servos seem to be recommended.  So 3 servos should be able to put out 5.4Kg-cm of torque. I am also looking for a digital servo, so that raises the price a little, but I think I found a 3.5Kg-cm digital servo at just over $11. Less torque, but I think should be adequate.

I should use this servo torque calculator to estimate a torque, to see if my choice is correct.

Torque tube upgrades: Tarrot Torque tube upgrade

Tricopter with full collective on all corners

For the version 3.0 of the copter, I am planning on getting 3 sets of the HK-T250 CCPM Electric Helicopter Kit which are only $30 each.

I will need 9 servos (3 servos per rotor swash plate) , and these look great value at $9 per pack and had great reviews. Turnigy 1800A SERVO 8G/1.7KG/.10SEC (3-PACK)

The microcontroller will have to control the speed of 3 motors, as well as 9 servos. Initial thoughts on this seem to tell me I may need 1 processor per rotor (controlling one rotor motor and 3 servos).

So 3 processors (one per corner) and then a 4th processor collecting data from IMU, and giving instructions to the other 3 controllers.

Or maybe use an ATmega1280 (Arduino Mega) which has 54 I/O channels, 14 of which can drive PWM. I would only ned 12 PWM channels.

Camcorder search

The canon Elura 2 that I’m currently using, is showing its age. One review I read was dated in 2000, so the camera is at least 10 years old.

The screen is not showing the colors correctly (very fiddly) and the quality is ok.

I’ve been looking around to find a decent replacement.

http://www.vimeo.com/forums/topic:7046

The Canon HV20 seems like a good option for low light work.

Computer replacements

For the car PC, I will RMA the current intel board, and get an ASUS ITX-220 ($78)mobo. The reviews I read report it faster then the Atom N230 boards, and hopefully it will not break when I stick it in my car!

So between selling the Atom board (maybe $55?), and getting this new one, I should only be out $30-$40 or so.

For the HTPC, I wanted a mini-ITX boars, so I’ll get a Zotac GF8200 Mobo ($116), with an Athlon LE-1640 CPU ($48),  and a low profile CPU fan ($25). Total = $189

Conversly, I could get a slightly larger case, and put a mATX mobo in there.Gigabyte GA-MA78LM-S2 Mobo ($67), Athlon LE-1640 CPU ($48), low profile CPU fan ($25), and a new case…

To make things even cheaper; make the current HTPC box dedicated to the projector. Movies and games. I can install XBMC on a USB stick to boot XBMC from it, or run windows for games, from the HD. XBMC will run beautifully since it has a tonne of horsepower under the hood.

For my workstation machine I can use ?? the VIA EN15000 mobo? (and rebuild the SageTV server on the VIA 1000 board)